Neelum Valley:
The Neelum Valley is 200 kilometres (125 miles) long and runs parallel to the Kunhar River (Kaghan Valley). From the top end of the valley trekking paths lead north around Nanga Parbat to the Indus. A fair-weather road goes as far as Kel, 155 kilometres (96 miles) from Muzaffarabad, more than half of which is surfaced. In 1993, the valley was open to tourists only as far as Patika; beyond this the road is too close to the Line of Control, and the Indians enjoy taking post-shots at passing vehicles.

Bus Service:
There are daily buses from Muzaffarabad and tourist rest houses at Athmukam, Neelum Town, Dowarian, Sharda, Kel and Halmat, all book able through the Director of Tourism, Muzaffarabad.  

Sights:
The road up the Neelum Valley leaves Muzaffarabad past the Red Fort, crosses the Neelum River on a new bridge and heads north through a steep, narrow gorge. After 16 kilometres (ten miles), at Ghori (or Kohori), the road crosses the river again. Just before the bridge, a jeep able track leads left and winds its way northwards up a side stream and deep into the mountains. From here it is possible to walk up Makra Mountain, 3,885 metres (12,744 feet), which is visible from Muzaffarabad, and continue on to Shogran in the Kaghan Valley. This makes for a pleasant two-to three-day trek.

Patika:  
Continuing up the Neelum Valley, the next village is Patika, six kilometres (four miles) further on. You can leave the main road again here, crossing a wooden suspension bridge, and follow a jeep able track north. This offers splendid opportunities for walking to the higher peaks on the Kaghan-Neelum watershed.

Panjgran:
Beyond Patika, the main road climbs some 250 metres (800 feet) above the river, which rushes through another narrow gorge. At Panjgran, the valley opens out and rough track leads up the mountains to the south, giving access to the Kafir Khan Range. To the north across the river are more tracks to the Kaghan-Neelum watershed.

Noseri:
At Noseri, 42 kilometres (26 miles) from Muzaffarabad, the road crosses back to the north side of the river and follows it up past Mali Mountain, 3,455 metres (11,336 feet), to Kundalshahi, 74 kilometres (46 miles) from Muzaffarabad, where the Jagran tributary joins the Neelum from the north. There is a trout hatchery and good trout fishing here.

Athmukan:
Athmukan, 84 kilometres (52 miles) from Muzaffarabad, lies at 1,371 metres (4,500 feet) above sea level and is the sub divisional headquarters of the region. The tourist rest house is a good place from which to explore the area. You can hire a jeep here to continue up the valley, through buses and jeep-taxis do run to Kel in good weather. About nine kilometres (six miles) further upstream is the village of Neelum with another tourist rest house. The Line of Control comes close to the river here: you look straight across into India.  

Dowarian:
Dowarian, 106 kilometres (66 miles) from Muzaffarabad and at 1,615 metres (5,300 feet), is surrounded by pine forest. A track leads west up a tributary to lake with a Forestry Department rest house. The track continues over the Rattigali Pass to the Kaghan Valley, about 30 kilometres (20 miles) away.

Sharda:  
At Sharda, 30 kilometres (20 miles) further on and 1,981 metres (6,500 feet) above sea level, the valley opens out and the hillside are covered with trees. The village is on the other side of the river and can be reached by a suspension bridge. The village is overlooked by Shardi and Nardi peaks, named after two mythical princes. From Sharda, the Surgan tributary leads west up to the Nurinar Pass, from where you can cross another pass and get down to Chilas. There is a rest house here. Kel, 2,097 metres (6,880 feet) above sea level and 155 kilometres (96 miles) from Muzaffarabad, is a picturesque village with a tourist rest house. Here the Neelum is joined by the Shounter tributary flowing down from the Shounter Pass.(another possible route north around the west side of Nanga Parbat to Chilas). Kel is at the end of the bus route, but form here you can hire ponies, or continue by jeep for the last 50 kilometres (31 miles) to the border village of Halmat and its rest house. In both the Neelum and Leepa valleys, you see unusual wooden houses, often three-storied and with and with Chalet-style pitched roof that drain off the rain,